Opening a new Cotswold pub is always a risk and never a given, but Lady Bamford is proving rather good at it.
The Wild Rabbit in Kingham is consistently busy read our interview with Wild Rabbit head chef Sam Bowser here, The Maytime in Asthall Manor is up and running and The Fox in Oddington an immediate hit.
Definitely catering to a certain crowd, the well heeled are evident in this quintessential Cotswold village, clamouring a for a piece of the Bamford pie.
All The Fox has to do it deliver, which it does with great charm and understated elegance.
Just on the Oxfordshire/Gloucestershire border, it was an inspired pub to takeover and reopen last year. Cotswold stone abounding, an abundance of rooms, the perfect getaway then for an ever expanding group of Cotswold fans, weekenders, mini breakers and tourists.
And yet it was predominantly a local crowd in situ when we popped in for lunch, the car park already full, Range Rovers aplenty.
A refreshing menu with some novel dishes and pizza options, the relaxed vibe here is also evident in the food
Led past the old section of the pub – the Tack Room’s bunting and rosettes lining the walls – the main extension is far more commodious – the long bar and light, airy dining room leading out into the garden.
And while The Fox obviously has the Daylesford pool to dip into, in terms of style, design, furnishings and produce, it manages to combine the oldy-worldy look with a modern, contemporary touch fairly effortlessly.
The Fox obviously has the Daylesford pool to dip into, in terms of style, design, furnishings and produce
But would the food deliver? In a word yes. A refreshing menu with some novel dishes and pizza options for those wanting something less formal, the relaxed vibe is also evident in the food.
Overseen by GM Nathan Walker-Unwin and head chef Alan Gleeson (formerly of The Harcourt Arms), the open plan kitchen is busy but firmly under control.
We kicked off with the half pint pint of shell on prawns with a Marie Rose sauce (£10) which were substantial and generous, if a little laborious.
The burratta with blood orange and Castel Franco (not a dictator but a kind of Radicchio) £12, was fresh, zinging with citrus and beautifully textured, the Castle Franco balanced on top to give it a crunch against the soft, suppleness of the cheese and tartness of the blood orange.
Lots of pubs do pizzas these days as a token gesture, but this was just right; oily, sizzling, the meat unctuous, the base thin and crispy….
Then the much fought over beetroot orzo, grilled leeks, roast beets, hazelnuts and Blue Murder (£18), which was a pasta take on a risotto and a real surprise, the orzo cooked in the beetroot juice giving it a real depth of flavour which contrasted perfectly with the bite of the hazelnuts and the sharpness of the blue cheese.
The Diavalo wood-fired sourdough pizza (it was never going to be ordinary here) came sprinkled with sweet spicy nduja, little nuggets of chorizo, pepperoni, sweet roasted peppers, Fior di latte and rosemary honey (£17) and was oh so good.
Lots of pubs do pizzas these days as a token gesture, but this was just right; oily, sizzling, the meat unctuous, the base thin and crispy….
The dishes were also beautifully presented, leaving you to sit back, chat and relax – the people watching is fabulous by the way!
Then pudding – a shared dark chocolate mousse with a pistachio biscotti (£9) – lighter than expected so lacking that sharpness, perhaps needing something piquant and juicy to perk it up, but in terms of hedonism it hit the spot.
A very reasonable bill, some delicious coffee, a quick gasp at the time, and a fast exit ensued, but as we galloped out to the car park at 3pm-ish the dining room was still full, lunch a languid repast.
You can certainly lose sense of time at The Fox, which I suspect is exactly the point – because as a tranquil escape from the frantic pace of life, it’s positioned just right.
For details on The Fox in Oddington go to https://thefoxatoddington.com
