There was an elderly couple sitting in the middle of the The Muddy Duck’s new dining room open-mouthed, staring in disbelief at their surroundings.
And yes, it is wonderfully over-the-top in the new concept restaurant The Hollow, but that’s the point! It’s a bit of fun and Lord knows we could do with that in our lives right now.
The kitchens are headed up by globally esteemed chef patron Pierre Koffman, but his head chef Christopher Lindsay is more than able to hold the fort
But to be honest, who cares, because the food is so good you’d eat it blindfolded and still be happy.
The kitchens are headed up by the globally esteemed chef patron Pierre Koffman, but his head chef Christopher Lindsay is more than able to hold the fort when the big man is away. READ ABOUT IT HERE
And Chris and his team served us the most remarkable dinner, which was ONLY enhanced by the surroundings, because at The Muddy Duck anything can happen.
When you’ve drunk martinis in a birdcage, been led through a forest with small creatures peering at you from the walls, visited a toilet in a spaceship complete with aliens, passed through the moonlit Luna Rooms and then been seated in a glade festooned with a canopy of leaves and vines, you are already in a state of heightened anticipation.
And that’s what’s so clever about The Hollow because while you almost expect them to then serve beetle juice pie with a snake venom coulis, instead the menu is totally the opposite – classic French – which means classy food cooked impeccably.
Which it was! A simple menu of four starters, four mains, four desserts and some incredible wine served by our lovely sommelier Ollie who hailed from Waddesdon Manor.
But first an amuse bouche – a slice of sultry Pissaladière to set the scene for our Gallic meal – a delicious slither of caramelized onion and anchovy tart.
Then the onion squash veloute (£12) which had my eyes rolling back in ecstasy, served with an onion fritter and pumpkin seeds; silky smooth, crunchy and a hint of Asian spices. Bien fait.
And the steak tartare with smoked aubergine and a sesame cracker (£16), because if you’re going to have it anywhere have it here. Beautifully seasoned, delicate, textured and complex, it was another accomplished classic.
For mains the venison with Rosscoff onion, red cabbage and celeriac mash (£36) which was so picture perfect. The game was beautifully cooked, the pureed mash soft and smooth, the Roscoff onion and blue cheese cup set in the pastry biscuit made us want to weep. Vive la France.
As for the cep risotto (£28) it was the finest I’ve had. It almost didn’t taste like a risotto because the sauce hits you first; creamy, strong, earthy almost feral, the finely diced ceps mixing with the hazelnut, so it was nutty and dense and then the bite of the rice follows later.
As for dessert I want to return for the creme brûlée and the apple tarte tatin, but the passion fruit soufflé‘ was worth the wait, served with a coconut ice cream (£12).
The Hollow is a gastronomic experience set in a fantasyland, and we could all do with a bit of escapism at the moment
It rose like a forest mushroom in its ramekin, resplendent to see and so soft and sugary with that warm, tart tropical hit.
We also tried the dark chocolate mousse with blackberry (£14) which was pretty as a picture, generous and bitter sweet.
THE HOLLOW PUT A SMILE ON MY FACE AND A GLOW OF CONTENTMENT IN MY BELLY
So what did I think? That what owners Nigel and Gemma Harris are aiming for here is really admirable. After all, The Muddy Duck is in the middle of nowhere, gastro pubs are now a dime a dozen, and to draw people in they needed to bring something new to the table.
And boy have they done that in droves. So yes, The Hollow put a smile on my face and a glow of contentment in my belly. It really does go that extra mile and food-wise it’s really excellent.
It might be a bit Marmite for the purists, but those that prefer something a bit safer can enjoy half a roast chicken, fish stew or pork belly in The Lodge – the pub side – where the food is more low-key.
For those who fancy pushing the boat out and trying something a bit different, The Hollow is a gastronomic experience set in a fantasyland, and we could all do with a bit of escapism at the moment.
The Muddy Duck, Main St, Hethe, Nr Bicester, Oxon, OX27 8ES https://www.themuddyduckpub.co.uk
