Broad bean guacamole

When Five Little Pigs opened in Wallingford this spring, to great fanfare, it walked the walk and talked the talk. Somewhere new and interesting, a young team at the helm, it sounded like a novel and exciting concept.

Opened by three local friends Aimee Hunt, Rob McGregor and Sam Smith, (read about it here) http://551.326.mywebsitetransfer.com/new-bar-and-restaurant-five-little-pigs-to-open-in-wallingford-thanks-to-overwhelming-success-of-community-crowdfunder/, it sounded enticing – an independent, funky, tasty, contemporary new eatery with a great vibe and stunning looking food.

Sam, Aimee and Rob at Five Little Pigs in lockdown

But living up to expectations in this industry is something else, so we nipped down to Wallingford to try it out.

The Five Little Pigs’ kedgeree was the best I’ve ever had – absolutely heavenly

Just on the periphery of the market square on a difficult road, location-wise it could be tricky, but when we arrived on a wet weekday, the interior was busy at the front at least – the back with its tiers of banquettes tends to get used more in the evenings.

Our table by the window at Five Little Pigs

Five Little Pigs definitely has more of a cafe feel by day, but looking around at the bright, cheerful decor the locals are obviously chuffed to bits with the new addition.

Time-wise, we bridged the brunch and lunch menu perfectly, so had the choice of both, but having spotted the kedgeree on the menu, brunch it was.

The kedgeree

Made with sustainable sourced smoked haddock, free range eggs and saffron rice, the Five Little Pigs’ kedgeree (£9) was the best I’ve ever had – the fish soft and succulent, the egg cooked perfectly, (I asked for them to be cooked longer and they were just right) a heady mix of spices, rice, herbs and soft onions, it was absolutely heavenly.

“The house doughnut with hedgerow jam and dipping custard almost bounced off the table during its fresh, light, sugary, very temporary moment on our plates”

The tiny fried olives with marjoram and capers were another surprise, crispy and crunchy, firm and pungent inside, they are my new favourite bar snack and disappeared in a trice.

Fried olives

As for the broad bean guacamole on sourdough with house pickles and chilli oil (£7.50), it was a nice twist on the usual avocado offering and a generous and inviting portion (see main pic).

“when they offered us dessert and coffee we said yes immediately, anything to prolong the dishes coming out in quick succession”

We threw in a portion of French toast fingers with seasonal fruits (£7.50), another firm favourite, and again hard to get right, needing the right soft, pan-fried taste, alongside the salty/sweet element, and it was spot on.

The French toast fingers

So when they offered us dessert and coffee we said yes immediately, anything to prolong the dishes coming out in quick succession. The doughnut had been on my friends radar since she’d arrived so one of those please, and some coffee.

The house doughnut with hedgerow jam and dipping custard (£6) went down a treat. Terribly trendy at the moment but again hard to perfect, these almost bounced off the table during its fresh, light, sugary, very temporary moment on our plates, as we fought over the last crumbs.

The house doughnut with hedgerow jam and dipping custard

The service was welcoming, the prices friendly, and all-in-all The Five Little Pigs impressed and surprised me more than I’d like to admit. Highly accomplished cooking with a light-hearted vibe – no wonder Wallingford is so delighted. I would be…..

For more info or to book go to https://www.fivelittlepigs.co.uk

KATHERINE MACALISTER