My meal at Wilding has haunted my dreams. How to do justice to Michael Carr and Ben Wood’s extraordinary cooking?
Because chefs of this calibre landing in Little Clarendon Street is such an unexpected gift READ ABOUT IT HERE, and our meal there was exceptional from the word go.
From the sharing plate style menu from which every dish beckons, to the execution and reverence given to every ingredient, they are absolutely killing it. Not a false note. I was incredulous.
“the Posh Northern tea chip with roast curry sauce, creme fraiche and caviar was satisfyingly All fur coat and no knickers”
My dining companions noted my silence, my total absorption, the sheen on my eyes as each mouthful passed my lips. I even laughed out loud when I tasted one of the desserts because it was so absurdly delicious – an actual physical reaction to the food.
We embarked on a complete culinary odyssey, kicking off with Porthilly oysters with smoked jalapeños which slid down a treat, then crudites with the lightest whipped feta and salted almonds, the 48 hour treacle sourdough and herb butter (a bright deep green which we ate with a teaspoon) plus the salt pig whipped lardo (like dripping in taste and texture).
The croque monsieur croquetas with pickled apple reminded me of Dutch ‘bitterballen’ – sublime crunchy croquettes filled with a light mix of ham hock and smoked cheese béchamel, which were completely addictive.
Sense of humour intact we dived into the Posh Northern tea chip with roast curry sauce, creme fraiche and caviar, so tongue-in-cheek, so moreish, so refined.
September offer: 25% discount off all food in September, Tuesday to Thursday
The pressed potato Pomme Anna covered with a thick, decadent curry sauce, offset by the cleanness of the creme fraiche and crunchy pop of caviar was satisfyingly all fur coat and no knickers.
Then the tarragon and dill agnolotti with green fennel and tomato (£9.50) – one of Michael’s signature dishes, the pasta parcels then doused with an in-house peppery nasturtium oil. Exemplary. Inventive. Clever.
Wilding is now Somewhere to shout about, Somewhere to be proud of, Somewhere to revel in. A breath of fresh air….
The courgette flower with smoked brandade and harissa aioli (£12) came stuffed with a smoked mackerel, mash, paprika mix, instead of the usual ricotta, completed with a stern hit of chilli; strong intoxicating flavours.
‘MFC’ Lamb Sweetbreads, Chorizo XO, appeared like fried chicken on a skewer and were a comedic and instant hit.
it was the grey gurnard tartare that really stole the show; served with a soy cured egg yolk and nori
But it was the grey gurnard tartare (see main pic) that really stole the show; served with a soy cured egg yolk and nori. Cured in grapefruit zest, fennel seeds, coriander, brown sugar and Japanese seasoning, in terms of complexity of flavour, texture and delicacy it pushed all the right buttons. Hugely memorable and for £11.50 an absolute gift of a dish.
The vegan BBQ Aubergine Baba Ganoush was beautifully and respectfully cooked, firm but not greasy, framed by the smokey babaganoush dip, topped with puffed rice and pomegranates.
Mains wise, the Baked Crab Rice with Lobster Mayonnaise (like a posh risotto) was our least favourite, can something be too fishy?
But the Cotswold pork chop with pineapple and duck egg (£28), simply oozed moisture and flavour, and had us swooning over the succulent meat and sticky, sweet accruements.
As for the Lake District Farmer’s 60 Day Age Ribeye, Bone Marrow 400g (£58 for 2-3 people), it strode in and stole all the glory – almost brutalist in appearance, again the charring and deep flavour of the meat, overly beefy, really melted in the mouth. And when set against the harsh herby chimichurri and the creaminess of the marrowbone, was quite simply breath-taking.
Nothing it seems is allowed to rest on its laurels – even the house salad with crispy shallots and salad cream (£6) came curled in on itself, the treat lying within.
The delights continued – this time desserts – the affogato soft serve with wasted coffee churro (£11) – we’ve all had coffee poured on ice cream right? But those churros, so soft, so light, so cinnamony, and the coffee was dark, bitter and strong.
The Wilding caramel button with salted ice cream had me actually bursting out laughing. So unexpected. So much fun
As for the pavlova strawberries and lime curd (£9), dusted with black pepper, it was elegant, refined and graceful.
The Wilding caramel button with salted ice cream (£9) had me actually bursting out laughing. Innocuous to behold, resembling a chocolate fondant, yet inside came a molten gold flow of caramel like an explosion in the mouth. So unexpected. So much fun.
We are all in on the secret – that this is what Oxford has been waiting for
And that’s the thing about Wilding – it’s fun and adventurous and vibrant. There is a buzz about the room as each and every diner becomes complicit. We are all in on the secret – that this is what Oxford has been waiting for. Somewhere to shout about. Somewhere to be proud of. Somewhere to revel in. A breath of fresh air.
And as we were leaving I got talking to another couple, wondering if they’d had the same experience as us. “This is our second time here this week,” she said, “and it’s already the best place in Oxford isn’t it?”
“This is our second time here this week,” she said, “and it’s already the best place in Oxford”
So I’m shouting to anyone who will listen. Go to Wilding. It will blow your socks off.
Katherine MacAlister
Wilding, Little Clarendon Street, Oxford. https://www.wilding.wine
September offer: 25% discount off all food in September, Tuesday to Thursday
